Atlanta culinary incubator helps chefs turn cultural traditions into businesses

In Atlanta’s Lindbergh neighborhood, a culinary incubator is giving chefs from immigrant, refugee and minority communities a lower-risk way to develop their food businesses while introducing diners to cuisines from around the world.

Located on Piedmont Road, Chow A La Carte operates as a rotating test kitchen. Instead of taking on the full expense of opening a restaurant, participating chefs get their own day to operate a service, experiment with dishes and build relationships with customers.

Restaurateur Yohana Solomon created the concept after years of working with the Atlanta Underground Market. As an immigrant, she said she wanted to create a place where chefs could share their heritage while having a realistic path toward building sustainable businesses.

“It’s a big city, and as an immigrant myself, it’s nice to find a space where people can share their culture,” Solomon said. “I sent it to the universe. In the ideal world, if we have a space where we can continue, but in a sustainable way, we can make an impact in the chef’s life.”

For Solomon, cooking is also a skill that connects people to their families and cultural traditions.

“We know one thing — your family gives you a skill: cook.”

The kitchen’s lineup changes from day to day, giving customers the chance to try food from different parts of the world. The offerings include Senegalese dishes, regional Italian cooking and Lebanese specialties.

Chef Fadi Alkaasamani is using his time at Chow A La Carte to introduce customers to Lebanese cuisine, including ingredients that come directly from his family in Lebanon. His father maintains an olive garden and produces the olive oil Alkaasamani uses in his cooking.

“The goal is definitely to have my own place,” Alkaasamani said. “The reactions. I love what I do deeply. That’s what keeps my mind straight. I definitely showcase all the Lebanese ingredients, and I just built it from there. This olive oil is actually shipped from back home. My father has an olive garden. We produce our own olives and olive oil. I get it straight from Lebanon.”

Chef Cheikh Ndiaye sees the kitchen as an opportunity to introduce more Atlanta diners to Senegalese food, including Yassa, a traditional dish.

“I think we’re definitely missing Senegalese exposure. A lot of folks are new — this is new to them,” Ndiaye said.

For him, watching customers experience his food provides a sense of fulfillment similar to the connection created in a traditional restaurant setting.

“It’s like a replication of the experience when you see the guests in front of you eating,” Ndiaye said.

Chef Deborah Kudelka has also found a new role through the space. After retiring, she returned to the kitchen to teach cooking classes and prepare traditional Italian dishes.

Kudelka said the chefs at Chow A La Carte share more than a workspace. They exchange knowledge and support one another.

“We harmonize. We help each other. Each one of our chefs, each one of us cooks from the heart 100%. That’s the beauty of this place.”

She also explained one of the techniques behind her cooking, particularly when it comes to using fresh basil.

“Basil goes in, contrary to what people think; you put it in now, and you put it in at the end. There’s a concentration of flavor.”

For Solomon, the community’s decision to dine at the test kitchen can have a direct impact on the chefs working to establish themselves.

“This is where your money counts, because it goes directly to them. You’re not only eating good food, you’re encouraging somebody starting a business,” she said.

The ultimate measure of success, Solomon said, is not simply how many customers a chef serves at Chow A La Carte. She considers the concept successful when a participating chef has gained enough experience, customers and confidence to leave the incubator and open a restaurant of their own.